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Posted by / 13-Sep-2017 05:00

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Most of my nights were spent contentedly at my beachfront hotel, Sirius, on South West Bay, rocking in a hammock with a good book by my side and the sound of the ocean in my ears.

However, when the full moon's out, head to Roland's Bar in Manchineel Beach where the whole island congregates for an all-night party. To learn a bit more about traditional life here, Chris from Deep Blue took me out with local boatman Senen to learn how to fish using hand-held lines and spear guns.

Fishermen called out as they hauled their catch to shore, immaculately ribboned girls giggled home from school, and a starry-eyed Rasta called Jammy clinked my beer at the last dip of sun behind the sea. To stay in Providencia is to be embraced by its community. It is part of Colombia but lies almost 500 miles north of the mainland – and is much closer to Nicaragua.

The islanders here speak English, not Spanish, and staunchly hold on to a culture that is far closer to its Caribbean neighbours than any Latin American political allegiance would suggest. Despite a handful of expert divers preaching legends about the high clarity of its waters, the island welcomes an average of only 15,000 visitors a year – a mere fraction of those received by its southerly neighbour, San Andres island.

As we sped towards a nearby dive site, he explained that the reef here is one of the best conserved in the world – but that preservation hasn't been easy.

As the spear snapped clear, I felt a confusing mixture of raw primal pride and soft city guilt. Later, on Santa Catalina – a pedestrianised islet connected to Providencia by a 300-foot floating orange and yellow promenade known as "Lovers' Bridge" – we built a makeshift fire on a deserted beach and barbecued our catch, which we served up with fresh plantain stuffed with cheese.

The next morning Felipe Cabresa offered to take me under the waves to experience Providencia's celebrated marine status for myself.

He is the stocky, gently spoken owner of a local dive shop.

But what there is here is a kind of flow – a way of being – that is so effortlessly devoid of stress it is impossible not to get caught in its molasses.

Click here for more photos of Providencia Within minutes of dropping my bags I was making footprints in the soft jungle-kissed beach of South West Bay.

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Café Studio near South West Bay was one of my favourites – a tiny restaurant that serves up unbeatable local recipes direct from the house of a local fisherman and his Canadian wife.